



Pan and tilt speed: Adjustable via onboard control panel and DMX.Electronic dimming: 0 - 100%, four dimming curve options.Prism: Indexing and rotation with variable direction and speed.Electronic 'shutter' effect: Strobe effect, pulse effects, instant open and blackout.
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Static gobo wheel: 8 gobos plus open, wheel rotation and shake.Rotating gobo wheel: 7 gobos plus open, wheel rotation, gobo indexing, rotation and shake.1 x UV, 2 x CTC) plus open, rotation with variable direction and speed Color wheel 1: 7 colors plus open, rotation with variable direction and speed.Regulated fan control for quiet operation.For added versatility and effect, it also houses an electronic dimmer and strobe, iris and 3-facet prism and an improved cooling system for quieter operation. Efficient optics with an increased beam angle from 13 degrees to 16 degrees punches out a variety of effects and colors from two gobo wheels and two color wheels.

This super bright LED profile moving head is even brighter than its predecessor RUSH MH 1 Profile with 50% more output. And I should have been able to notice it without since every cable is well noted as well as the plug on the board.We see you're near our warehouse - Get Next Business Day Delivery on Most Orders Martin RUSH MH1 Profile Plus 180w LED Moving Light I noticed it while trying to put the board of another one just to test it. The glue which is put on factory on the led connector of the first cpu board was still intact so it would seems it was a factory default, but could still be a previous repair fault : the 2 connectors for the pan end of course (clockwise) where swapped on the cpu board! (And I'm sure its not me because I always took a photo when opening a box, note every unplugged cable, and I did not unplugged both of them at once). I don't know who's fault it is since the machine was second hand. So, I solved my problem and I thought I would mention it just in case someone ever has the same issue. But I could not reproduce it, tough I did not tried to plug it in the dmx chain) (BTW, sometimes, at startup, it also force himself to one of the pan end (I did not identified which) for about a minutes.
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But I was wondering if maybe a firmware rewrite could do the trick (as if it was a corrupt firmware)? (Meaning I should search for someone having the Martin Companion for software update as I won't bought one if I'm not at least confident it could work)Īs anybody had this kind of issue or an idea of something I missed or could try? My guess is it should either be a cpu/memory problem implying I should change one of the CPU cart (which?) or get it to Martin. The only way to stop it is to shut-down the machine.įinally, if I run on default pan setting and starting too far, I can run a software pan reset (or DMX) which get the machine almost in position but still a little further, same position as if I start it not too far (I would say less than half the course). If I turn on the pan reverse feature and start the machine far from the clockwise end of track, then, after the same described wrong init, it reverse the pan (as asked) and bocks on the counterclockwise end of track (the one without sensor) and the motor continue to force rotate without stopping (and so, forcing himself). But if a start the machine further of it, then, once it has reached the end of track, it goes back for a time (about a third or a half of the first movement), then, stop s little bit (roughly 0.2sec) then again, rotate back for what seem to be the angle between the end of track and the position it should get. If I'm close to the end of track (most clockwise), then, the head is almost at the right place. What's weird is that I first believed it was a trigger issue but I checked both hall-effect sensor (and their magnet) and the optical sensor (for the motor's optical wheel) as well and they all seems fines. When doing the initial startup, it does not come to the home position. I have 4 martin rush MH1+ (2nd hand from last year) and one of them is having a pan issue (everything else is perfectly fine) :
